The water got super choppy and it felt a little dicey for a bit, but eventually we docked and made our way back down the 3k trail to the car. Couldn’t have asked for better timing – we saw the fjords within one of the only windows of sun during the entire day.
That change of seasons is all the more distinct on Newfoundland, it seemed. We were really excited to have so much freedom of choice. We found a lovely, deeply recessed campsite with no neighbours that we could hear, let alone see. We set up camp – it was still a little misty. Behind our site there was a little trail, so we took that to the ocean. Again, we were completely alone. It still blew me away to be so close to the ocean – it just feels so huge.
The ferry trip actually went by very quickly. It was nice to have time together where neither of us were driving but we were still going somewhere. With a bit more reading and exploring, and taking a very noisy video on the bow of the ship, our time on the high seas passed and we packed back up and made our way down to the car once more.
The trail changed terrain several times, from steep but wide, to twisting and narrow. It opened up to the sea a few times, and we were high enough up that if we looked directly down, you could see the waves crashing against the rock wall below. The trail ended at a beautiful spot, directly in the sun, overlooking a rocky outcropping where the waves crashed and tangled.
We made another stop, turning almost backwards onto a side road, down two kilometres of brutalized gravel with potholes deep enough to seek shelter in. We finally arrived at Beauleugh Ban Falls, a really tall waterfall that cascaded onto the rocks below. It was dark by that time so our photos didn’t turn out, but we were glad we made the trek even though it shook us up quite a bit in the car!
We loved seeing the little creatures that lived in these water collections, little urchins and anemones and other things we weren’t quite sure about. It’s like a universe within a universe. Did the creatures even know they were on land – did they know how many humans passed them every day? Were they in more danger there than in the depths beneath the waves?
As a writer, I really enjoyed travelling the woods that she would have travelled as a young woman. I, too, had acres of property to explore when I was a girl, always running away with a backpack full of book, climbing up rock faces and spending hours alone in the woods with my little notebooks.
However, it got dark very quickly and although I had my headlamp, we still got pretty freaked out. There were a few forks in the trail that didn’t seem to make sense, so we split up – yes, really – to check them both out and then I’d shout if it was the right trail and Christine would have to find me, or vice versa. It was a beautiful trail but no moose and just stress!
Claire-Fontaine trail, a 3.3k loop in a forest, is rife with peeks through the trees to a salt marsh and estuary, which we learned about from their information post at the trailhead. It was quite pretty with a well-trodden trail. The overcast sky made the greens all the more vibrant, and it had a distinctly witchy vibe to it.